Pictured here: farmer (a goddess, in my book) Betty Van Dyke is one of a long table of people, dining family-style (feet on the coffee table, reading books and fast-forwarding through commercials?) at River Cafe & Cheese Shop, where Justin and cafe chef-owner, Heidi Schlecht, had prepared a fine meal.
I've been too sad and in denial to write about our community's great loss—Pittsburgh's gain, if you can believe that—but Justin Severino, Community Butcher (whoops, Justin, I almost typed "Bitcher"), has left Santa Cruz. I've written hundreds, if not thousands, of words about him, and taken more pictures than I can count of him, his food, and his life (wife, co-workers, and various stages of the hair growing on his head and face).
At age thirty, obviously concerned about his mortality and the diminishing chances to replace Tony Randall or Anthony Quinn (or even Anthony Bourdain) as the World's Oldest Father, Justin and his beautiful wife ("Can you believe she married me?"), Hilary Prescott, have moved back East to be near their families and start one of their own. (Good luck with that, Justin: there are instructional manuals out there.)
Oh, I kid, but let me tell you, tears have been spilled. The loss has rippled through our food community, and the sadness is huge. HUGE.
Hilary herself quit her job and went through any number of workshops and bureaucratic rigamarole, and a huge freakin' learning curve that I'd have feigned death to avoid, to be a partner with her husband—they've been together since they were eighteen. Let's just see that again: they've been together since they were eighteen. Of course, eighteen, twelve years ago was kind of like thirty was, thirty years ago. (If you follow me. If you follow history. And eighteen-year-old now is pretty much a fifth-grader, in terms of knowing how to navigate society and responsibilty and things that we had to learn Too Young three decades ago. But I digress.)
The partnership with TLC Ranch (also a star subject on these pages) has dissolved, and I'll have some (good) news from TLC's Jim Dunlop and Rebecca Thistlethwaite as well: a write-up of the farmers markets and restaurants in the Bay Area where you can buy or taste their sublime meat products. For the uninitiated, "TLC" = Tastes Like Chicken. Take that, PETA.
I'll have that TLC Ranch write-up soon—I owe them (and just about every farm in the county) a visit, but I don't know when I can get there. It will have to be spontaneous, and December is so rarely about spontaneity.
And speaking of the maturity of Mr. Severino.
I have learned so much from Justin, and from Jim Dunlop—both of whom are pretty good about not taking themselves too seriously, I think. Well, more than most of my human friends.
And I honestly grieve that I can't hang out in muddy fields spotted with pig poop and listen to them horse (so to speak) around. Being the salty old broad that I am, I rarely felt too dainty to stomp around through the stinky bits, or to join in their roaring laughter over certain "crudities" (yes, I made up that useful word—not to be confused with crudités, you fancy little readers, you), but I am aware that there are crudities that are reserved for people who can pee standing up (without removing their garments). I'm just glad neither Justin nor Jim ever exhibited contempt for my gender (or my particular self, even), and that both appreciated someone who really saw and tried to illuminate their good works.
MY OWN THOUGHT FOR THE DAY: Treasure your treasures while they're here: you can't take them with you—unless they are pork fat stuck to your butt and belly. Those treasures might pop like a soap bubble at any moment.
Thanks for visiting, and for your kind support.
Justin and Hilary: thank you for everything.
That's really all for today. I have another sad farewell to two of my
favorite young farmers on the earth, who are leaving our beloved
farming community for other pursuits, but they deserve their own post.
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