Dilemma

Pictured at left, the wonderful sculpture of Cate Geyer, partner with Ronald Donkervoort of Windmill Farms, today at the market downtown.

I'm in a bit of a moral dilemma. What do you think?

I was contacted by SN (Supermarket News) with a very nice letter:

I work for Supermarket News magazine, a weekly business to business publication in New York, owned by Fairchild/Conde Nast. We are running a story on farmers’ markets this week, and I found your Small Farms website when I was researching photos to use with the story. I was wondering what your usage fee would be, and if it would be possible for you to email or provide a link to a high res version of an image on the website.

I have to finish designing the story by Wednesday, so it is rather short notice, but I thought I’d try to get in touch with you since both my art director and myself think that your photos are wonderful.

She e-mailed too late to make the deadline, and inquired about using my work in upcoming issues.

(Pictured at right: Todd Champagne, whose wife Jordan—yes, her real name is Jordan Champagne—cans all the cool stuff like the tomato water I bought today, for Happy Girl Kitchen...a partner with Happy Boy Farms.)

So I was wondering, in my typical black-or-white fashion, how it would be possible for a publication devoted to supermarkets, which are the axis of corporate evil in the food world, to write anything positive or encouraging about farmers markets. I requested a sample issue, and one arrived today. On the front page, the main story is blurbed (tabloid style, rather looking like Variety): "Open for Business: Supermarkets are keeping an eye on farmers markets, and borrowing from their merchandising strategies." I turn to page 21, and see the column: FRESHMARKET. The lead story is called "In Season," and it is subtitled: "Supermarkets are learning about merchandising—and fending off competition—from their local farmers markets."

A sample:

No other state has as many farmers markets as sunny California, with more than 400 in operation. As far as [Dave] Bennett [owner of a grocery store] is concerned, the markets are real competitors that thrive without the regulations or expenses with which conventional retailers live. [Emphasis mine.]  

"They chip away at our retail sales," he said. "It's always been a real sore subject with me. Farmers' markets erode local business sales, not only ours, but our competitors' as well."

Hello? Farmers markets ARE local business, Mr. Bennett.

That excerpt just gave me the willies.

On the other hand, there is this: 

"A farmers market is a community gathering place," said Randii MacNear, market manager at the Davis, California farmers market. "You make a relationship with all the sellers. You're talking to people who produce your food.

"With all the market groupies that are always there, it's like a big familiy reunion," she said. "Most people sit in front of their computers all day. When you get to a farmers' market, your soul goes, 'ah.' This is what it's like to be a human being. [Emphasis mine.]

"Part of the thing about the farmers markets is the charm of it, connecting with the people who actually grow your produce," she said.

The article goes on to say that some supermarkets are either being friendly or using a smart strategy by requesting that farmers markets be located in their parking lots.

It's a bit of a dilemma for me. I certainly don't want my photos used to deceive anyone into thinking that the gorgeous produce I photograph is remotely related to the over-wintered, waxy, crappy produce that lines the shelves of a grocery store. My daughter said, philosophically, "Mom, that's your art. You should show it to as many people as you possibly can." Sweet, but maybe she's missing the point.

Bob thought it was a good idea, too. He says that anything that gets healthier food in the public consciousness is to be supported, even if it's freaking Walmart or Safeway offering it.

Am I selling out if I sell photographs to this Condé Nast production? The quote from Bennett gave me the creeps. The MacNear quotes alleviated them somewhat. But the article ends with Bennett's voice, whining: "I'm paying the taxes and being very regulated. I feel it's not a very level playing field."

I'm sure he's wrong. I'll bet he enjoys plenty of advantages, including protection from the wind and rain, the ability to change horses in the middle of the stream and cut off any farmer at any time, and change to another one who offers better prices. Farmers markets are committed to their vendors, and stick with them through thick and thin. I should know: I've seen the farmers' stalls this spring that offered nothing more than chard and butternut squash for three weeks in a row. Bennett wouldn't have to do that: he'd just get on the phone and call someone else to create those "waterfall displays and mass displays of produce" the article mentions supermarkets mimicking, hoping to steal some magic from the farmers markets.

I assume they've read my blog and know my politics. 

Ah, me.

What is a girl to do? Operators are standing by to take your call.

Comments

[Katie]

I know this is a different issue, but I am a (very) liberal vegetarian with a PhD who has associated during my 16 years as a vegetarian with a lot of very conservative people who would have, for example, in reading a story about a person meeting my description, just have assumed they were colossally strange and written them off (not to say the colossally strange part isn't true, of course!). What I have found is that once people get to know me, then they are more able to listen and be receptive to my beliefs. Not to suggest that I have changed the world in some major way by a sneaky tactic. But what I have grown to realize is that sometimes it is more powerful to come alongside people who believe strongly and whisper our different belief into their ear (and inside their "defenses") than to yell our beliefs from across a fence or to avoid those people all together.

Hope this helps. I do understand your quandry. However, I think your daughter has a point. Your art deserves to be seen, and it's entirely possible that your tagline on a photo will bring a new person to your blog. :)

[Matt Armendariz]

Such an interesting dilemma. Do you help further the cause and awareness of Farmer's Markets by participating or do you draw your line in the sand and have nothing to do with them? I wish there was an easy answer here and I think only you will be able to decide.

If I was in your situation I'd have to say no. I've learned to trust my instincts after years in the food/design business and if I'm feeling even a tad bit strange about a project or endeavor I pass. There will always be something else coming along shortly.

Perhaps I've spent too much time working for higher end markets but I don't believe that it's quite fair to say that all supermarkets "are the axis of corporate evil in the food world" (that's a claim I reserve for fast food conglomerates myself.) Having said that it pays to seriously consider whether you want to align yourself to their efforts of raising awareness.

Sometimes it just pays to say no.

P.S. I don't believe selling your beautiful images would in ANY MANNER whatsoever constitute you "selling out". Letting big bad food manufacturers use you and your talents and voice and your blog to further their agenda for money, well, that'd be selling out to me.

[andrea]

ack, the pressure of being the first commenter! but really, i hate to say it, but i think it's totally your call and it's obviously a tough one. i agree with you absolutely on the bennett-creepiness bit. is there any way they would include a printed link to this blog, maybe under a little bio about you? i know some journals and mags do that, but i've never run across supermarket news ;) anyhow, that's probably not something they would consider. hm.

by the way, delurking after finding your blog via the eat local challenge - great posts and i intend to keep on reading, thanks.

[Xanthippe]

Whew! What an unholy mess of a postition in which to find yourself, Tana!! You have my true sympathy. And while I could expound at length on your dilemma, I won't; instead, I simply urge you to trust your heart. Get out of your head, close your eyes, take several deep breaths, and let those feelings speak (too "kumbyah," I know, but this *is* Santa Cruz county!!). Matt spoke of those times when one feels "a tad bit strange about . . . " something, and learning to go with that sense of uneasiness. And my experience has taught me that when I see red flags, I go no further; in the past, I've ignored such flags to my detriment.

You will make the right decision, Tana, and whatever that decision is, you'll have everyone's support. Keep us posted, please.

Pamela

[from Philly]

"I'm paying the taxes and being very regulated. I feel it's not a very level playing field."

It's a common misconception, but in Philadelphia, where I live, farmers pay a business privilege tax and are regulated in the City code along with other commercial activities.

Supermarkets open locations next to their competion all the time. It's standard practice in their industry. Most farmers' markets run less than 10 hours a week. On the other hand, their supermarket competitors can be open up to 24/7. If farmers' markets were really taking a toll on their profits, wouldn't they stock more local food to try and compete? The whole competition arguement just doesn't hold water for me.

I think you should let them use your pictures. Especially if they caption the photo as from a farmers' market. It's good advertising for markets and its beautiful bounty. You might convert someone or pique their interest in checking out their local market. It's a great opportunity to reach an audience you might not otherwise have access to.

[haddock]

Once money changes hands in any setting, farmer's market or corporate hypermarket everything changes.

I too, tend to be black and white but unfortunately the world is infinite shades of grey. I can agree with both sides (scary in itself) of Bennett's statements.

For your purposes however my questions would be, is exposure in this magazine likely to get your point of view across to many other people? In this case I doubt it. SN is a trade publication and my sense is that anyone reading it seeing an article about farmer's markets will only be looking for ideas they can steal from them.

I however understand the desire to get the word out, in any forum possible.

[david]

The answer is clear to me. If you decide to do, increase your usual price by at least 50% (I'd charge double) and donate the excess to localharvest.org

More people get to see your beautiful picture and you get to support an organization you care about.

[FaustianBargain]

can you ask them to include your blog url with the photo credit? there is no such thing as bad publicity.

[David L]

Take the money, and buy yourself a nice bottle of Champagne.

From a local producer, of course!

If an pro-Bush publication paid you to write an essay as to why shopping local at a farmer's markets is good, would you do it?
If Eric Schlosser was asked to write an article for Fast Food News (I'm making that name up) titled, "How Fast Food Needs to Change to Save The Planet" is that wrong?
Do you think he would do it?

If they're going to use your photo with a caption, "This is an evil farmer's market", then go ahead and say no.

That's the difference between being a shill, promoting a product or service you don't agree with. We all work for people we don't really agree with. I probably have clients who are Republicans (yikes!) and as much as I want do, I don't weed them out before they become clients.

[dirty joe]

most people buy their groceries at grocery stores...unfortunately most people voted for bush too but that doesn't mean we have to give up on them. sounds to me like you are being asked to help promote farmers' markets to the majority via grocery store advertisments. cool, go for it, and make sure you get paid for lugging you camera to farmers markets all week long. we farmers could use more business. my political imagination is as wildly leftist as any hippie from the 60's but i still have to live in this life. feel guilty when you find yourself working for haliburton, not whole foods. selling your shots sounds like more of a positive than a negative to me. logan is getting big! see you soon.