Thinking Inside the Box: Liberated Summer Cooking

My buddy, Steve, sent me a link to a story in the New York Times today: "The Summer Cook: Nobody Ever Slaved Over a Hot Toaster Oven." He knows because we talk so often, how my new toaster oven has changed my life for the better. It's been on my mind to write about it, and the article nudged me.

Our four-slice toaster had died while I was traveling in May, and it needed a replacement. The more I thought about it, the more I wanted a toaster oven, even though I am not the sort of person who needs every appliance and gadget in the world. We live in a rented house, and our electricity is covered in our (exorbitant) rent. Since Bob had replaced our old electric stove/oven with a propane one (for which we buy the fuel), our costs went up (and on a side note, I'm having to learn to cook all over again, as I understood the idiosyncrasies of the old oven perfectly). I also reasoned that it's ridiculous to heat an entire oven (and the whole kitchen) for a meal for two people, no matter what.

. . . . . . . . . . .

So I posted at a food forum, asking for answers. "Toaster ovens. Who knew there was such a disparity in quality and functionality?

"I am willing to spend $100 or so, but I want something solid and functional and lasting. Toast is primary, as our fancy four-slot just crapped out...but as long as I'm at it, I'd love the functionality of the little oven.

"They always picture them with chickens or game hens inside, but is that possible? We have a gas oven, but it takes forever to heat, and if I can throw small things in there, I'd like to. (Especially since the landlord pays for electricity.)

"What is to be avoided? Are there good brands?"

. . . . . . . . . . .

Almost immediately, someone I like and respect posted an answer: "Tana, this is what I have, and what you want.

"It is the only oven I have used in my own home for over two years now. (I've had it for almost five, and it shows no signs of slowing down.) I bake in it (the convection feature is great for this). I slow roast pork shoulders in it. I roast (small) chickens in it. Ribs. You name it. It broils like [the very Dickens], too. (I've done creme brulee in it.)

"I did tests with a Polder thermometer (one of those with the probe on a long wire, so you don't have to open the oven door), and it (my unit, at least) is much closer to true than any landlord-issue apartment oven I've ever used. (Varied maybe 20 degrees or so.)

"It's easy to clean, and you can warm your serving dishes on top of it while you're cooking dinner.

"And it toasts perfectly well. (You might have to experiment, though. I like my toast nice and dark on both sides, and it took me a while to find the right setting.)

"Anyway, I like it!"

And that was exactly what I needed to hear.

. . . . . . . . . . .

"This" is the Cuisinart 175-BC Convection Toaster Oven/Broiler. It is a thing of beauty and a joy forever, and let me tell you why. (And this is the same model in white, which is often cheaper.)

I decided to bite the bullet (actually, Bob bit it, and gifted me as a thank-you for all the extra Logan care I'd been doing). I'd already gone shopping to check some toaster ovens out in person, and some of them were just rickety. No other word for it.

As soon as I pulled the Cuisinart 175-BC (as I think of it) out of the box, I could feel its quality through the heft and the soundness of the parts. The door pulled straight, without the hint of a wobble. I plugged it in and figured it out. (It's easy to figure out.) And I have used it every single day since it came to the house.

To my surprise, I found it can hold a 9" Pyrex dish. There is a lot I can cook in a 9" Pyrex dish. I have roasted chickens, and made casserole/lasagne things. I have broiled, I have melted, I have braised, and I have toasted. I have made those wonderful Vicolo cornmeal pizzas (pictured above). Cooking a piece of fish is a dream.

On hot nights, it doesn't heat the entire kitchen. Amazingly, it heats up to 400° in less time than it takes to make a piece of toast (3-1/2 minutes for the "4" toast setting I like). I have yet to bake anything with batter in it, but I don't bake that often anyway. I cook.

This little oven cooks. I am so happy with this machine, as happy as I've ever been with any machine (and I include every single Macintosh computer I've ever been thrilled to buy). It has enhanced my creativity in the kitchen, but I'm thinking inside the box...the little chrome-brushed box that sits atop my microwave (it's surprisingly compact).

Best of all, every time I use it, I mentally thank the friend who told me about it. He is someone who loves to be helpful, and I understand the joy he gets from turning someone on to something good. (That's why I was a good waitress back in the day. I could never fake enthusiasm.)

To recap: energy-efficient, compact, versatile, powerful, reliable, solid, easy to use, and handsome. Except for the "compact" part, it could describe my ideal man!

And now you know why some modern technology can bring joy. Technology in the service of creativity makes me glad, and it's pretty much my dharma.

Signed,
A Re-inspired Cook

. . . . . . . . . . .

There is a cookbook published by Ten Speed Press coming out soon: The Gourmet Toaster Oven, by Lynn Alley. I'm sure I'll look at it, but I think I'll do pretty well going through recipes in the cookbooks I own to determine what I can fit into the cookspace.

Tomato highlights: I made the slow-roasted tomatoes last night, and posted a photo here (with a link to the recipe). I actually used my conventional oven for this, because it isn't worth it to do less than a giant sheet pan of these little ruby treasures. Breakfast this morning: scrambled eggs with goat cheese and these tomatoes.

Comments

[Squeat Mungry]

Gosh, Tana! I'm so glad you're pleased with your oven. Like you, I was amazed at everything I could do with it.

Now whenever I use mine, I'll get to think of how happy you are with yours. It's nice to feel useful!

Keep up the great blog!

Squeat

[bexn]

Thanks so much for the toaster tip! Your photographs are amazing, btw.

[Kalyn]

Thanks so much for the toaster oven tip. It does look like just what I want.

[Todd March]

I could not agree with you more about the Cuisinart TOB convection ovens. I live in a studio apartment with no kitchen, and just stopped baking and cooking in the oven as the toaster ovens I had were just terrible--burned foods on top and they were raw on the bottom. They were made for toasting, obviously, and NOT cooking...

Then I got this little gem by Cuisinart that we like so much--this oven really has invigorated my cooking creativity as well. EVERYTHING comes out of it wonderful, from cookies to duck breast...

I also too am a Mac-Fanatic. I love when I hear someone likes the Cuisinart TOB convection oven AND Mac computers--I feel a kindred spirit very close by...!

Thanks for sharing...

Todd

[Karilea]

I just bought a convection toaster oven. I was about to go out the door to find dishes that would be accomodated in size because I read that Pyrex shouldn't be used in this type of oven, due to the size and the proximity of heat to dish. A lot of stories about breaking inside the oven, shattering, etc. I first thought..."this is twaddle, people should know not to place cold dishes in hot stoves, etc." Have you had the experience of your pyrex exploding inside your oven? If not, then I can use my pyrex dishes for bread, etc., without having to go to the expense of buying new! Thank you for your response!

[Tana]

Oddly enough, Karilea, just this week I learned about the new not-improved Pyrex exploding in the oven. It happened to me once in my regular oven, but has not happened in my Cuisinart.

Here is a link to the Snopes story on the phenomenon:

http://www.snopes.com/food/warnings/pyrex.asp

I can't advise on whether or not to use it.